Butare is described as Rwanda’s second city and the intellectual centre of the country. To me it felt like something from a Western – Clint Eastwood wouldn’t look all that out of place walking down the main street with its Adobe-style buildings. Well, alright he would look pretty out of place, but you know what I mean.
It’s also got a great museum (I learnt that the high jump was a traditional sport in Rwanda – check out this picture), an arbouretum and it smells amazing because of all the eucalyptus trees.
We stayed in a church guesthouse there (we stayed in church guesthouses just about everywhere we went – most towns seem to have one, they’re clean, cheap and usually have amazing gardens). This one was special though – it was a bit like stables, with lots of cubicles off a long, dark corridor with wooden partition walls that didn’t quite reach all the way to the ceiling. The noise at night was shocking – a cacophony of snoring, chattering, tinny music from mobile phones and something I couldn’t identify which sounded a lot like a wasp trapped in a guitar.